Kilver Court Blog
Casamia Bristol: Roger's Review
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A couple of months ago we had a fascinating visit to Kilver Court from two young chefs who have caught the media’s eye, Jonray and Pete Sanchez-Iglesias of Casamia.
They are the youngest chefs ever to achieve a Michelin star and British to boot, although you wouldn’t know it from their surname!
Their parents had created a great Italian family restaurant in Westbury on Trym many years ago, although their father is Spanish by birth.
This was all converted to their current operation that Monty and I visited last weekend. We were absolutely bowled over. Remember the last time we sat down to a Michelin star meal was in our very own Charlton House. We were awarded our first Michelin star within 9 months of opening our hotel and restaurant in 1996. We held on to it until 2003 when we felt that we no longer believed in the fine dining ethos as we embraced the much simpler concept of local, seasonal and organic food.
So I suppose you could say that we sat down with some trepidation to savour or critique what was to be an 11 course tasting menu. The like of which we last put together ourselves with our own chef Elisha Carter, to in turn ourselves be critiqued by Giles Coren, the Sunday Times food critic.
Casa Mia quickly filled with gourmet diners who were clearly there for an expected treat. Our welcome was genuine and calm, a good sign of quiet confidence. The young waitress, Kate, had a wonderful naivety and charm that was brimming with enthusiasm, she couldn’t speak highly enough of her bosses.
The first selection of appetisers arrived with a fanfare and of course with brother Jonray presenting, warm and enthusiastic as we remembered him.
Now the dishes started to come thick and fast, but light and each dish ever more inventive, presentation always a theatre, Heston watch out, there was something really genuine and sincere with what they attempt to do with seasonality that I suspect is still to fully develop. The miniature scrambled egg was presented in an egg box, complete with wisps of straw. Every dish was supported with a wine that had been cleverly chosen to bring out the flavours and senses of both dish and wine. The sommelier Andrew just loved his job and with maître’d Matthew and dad , Paco, they made the meal a really memorable occasion. For the last desert courses, already clutching our sides, we headed to the experimental kitchen to join the Brothers for a final few rounds of one piece de resistance after another. Finally the carefully engineered toy size British Trifle arrived, they must have known that was what my Granny had given me as a child!
I have to say we were seriously impressed. To create a great meal of many courses consistently is nearly impossible, to do it with a committed team with charm and belief front of house as well as back is tough, to do all that with enthusiasm, passion and absolute brilliance is unique. We had spent 6 hours with the boys, by the time we left at 1.30 a.m. , a life we would never have dreamed of going back to , but we had also made friends for lfe and rediscovered our taste buds.
5 stars from me and we will be back.
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Mini Scrambled Eggs
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Trifle
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Breast of chicken
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